Feb 09
|12:23

The Golden Triangle's rise as an illicit opium producer began in the 1940s (post WWII). Cut off from sources in India and China by the war, the French Opium Monopoly reversed its policy of suppression and encouraged poppy cultivation among its colony's hill tribes, particularly the Hmong of Laos and Tonkin. Between 1940 and 1944, opium production in the region grew from 7.4 tons to 60.6 tons annually.
-- source
A
pproximately 40% of the tourists that arrive in SE Asia are between the agesof 18-35 years old. A significant percentage from this market (unlike holiday types) tend to stay for months rather than weeks. The goal: backpack through inexpensive countries while 'expanding' through new experiences.
In the SE Asian core (Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, and Indonesia) quality ecstacy and cocaine is hard to find, while marijuana, speed, magic mushrooms, and speed are plentiful.At the center of this 'core' is the 'Golden Triangle'.
The Golden Triangle
From the 1970’s until roughly a decade ago, the Golden Triangle competed with Afghanistan for global dominance in the poppy trade (poppies are the source of heroin and opium). This drew thousands of western hipsters who flocked here to 'swtch on and tune out'.
In the past few years however, the global 'war on drugs' has affected the region by making opium and marijuana cultivation a suddenly less-profitable option than cooking up speed pills in a lab (the center of this operation is Burma). Thus, while poppy cultivation has plummeted, the manufacture of synthetic methamphetamines has skyrocketed. The net result of this for drug tourists is a seedier scene with spikier drugs and more dangerous dealers.
All across Asia, the uppers (speed) have thus taken over from the downers.
In Thailand, as an example, it was estimated that in 2003, an estimated 5% of the Thai population was hooked on speed. This was the catalyst for Thailand's 2003 'war on drugs' (in which more than 2,500 suspected drug dealers were killed under some very dodgy circumstances).
For tourists, this opened the era of widespread 'police stings'. Essentially, these involve cops lurking around tourist areas looking to bust stoners. When busted, stoners would be driven to an ATM and forced to 'buy' their freedom. Here is one account from 'Peter', a German tourist who got busted at a guesthouse near Khao San Road in Bangkok:
I was having a smoking holiday in Bangkok, and smoking only in my room. One day, I heard heavy boots climb the stairs. Someone banged on the door. It was the police. I had around 5 grams in my room, plus a bong. They left the stuff, drove me to an ATM, and demanded 80% of my bank balance.
I paid them around USD$1,000. Then they let me go, and told me never to smoke again.
SE Asia drug law overview
Southeast Asian governments impose the toughest drug laws on the planet. Here is a quick summary of drug laws and penalties in key tourist destinations in the region:Chilled out
CambodiaThis is a good place to party: legally, persons caught consuming ‘narcotic plants or substances’ face a rather light imprisonment of between seven days to one month, plus a fine of between 25,000 riels to 100,000 riels’ (100,000 riels = roughly USD $25.00). -- Cambodian drug laws PDF However, those caught trafficking (anything over 10 grams will be considered as such) face jail terms ranging from five years to life. Typically, you shouldn’t expect many hassles (nor police stings as in Thailand, where they’ll drain your ATM account in exchange for your freedom) if you keep a low profile and treat the locals respectfully. US Department of State
Vietnam
Although traffickers face the death penalty, punishment for drug use is lax, and it is currently being proposed to make personal drug use and administrative violation (ie you pay a fine) rather than a criminal one.
Death
MalaysiaThis is not a good place to get your fix on. From the US Department of State : “Malaysian legislation provides for a mandatory death penalty for convicted drug traffickers. Individuals arrested in possession of 15 grams (1/2 ounce) of heroin or 200 grams (seven ounces) of marijuana are presumed by law to be trafficking in drugs.” In addition, there is a provision for caning as punishment for lesser offences. Yikes…
Singapore
Traffickers (2 grams of heroin, 3 grams of coke, 15 grams of marijuana, 10 grams of hash) face a mandatory death penalty. For consumption, it’s a maximum of 10 years in jail and/or a fine of S$20,000 (USD $13,000).
Indonesia
There appears to be a direct link between Bali Island and Australian heroin traffickers (for example, the Bali nine ). For those caught trafficking, it’s the death penalty for narcotics and a maximum of 20 years for marijuana. For simple possession of either, it’s a prison term of 1-5 years. Read: Executions for drug crimes resumed in Indonesia (New York Times)
Tourist stings
PhilippinesHarsh laws are in place that prohibit the consumption and trade of marijuana, crystal meth, ecstasy, and opium/ heroin, but enforcement is lax. However, there are tons of poor people in the Philippines and drug stings (they sell to you, tell the cops, then collect a fee) are common. If the cops pinch you, expect them to drive you right past the local jail to an ATM.
Thailand
The punishment for possession of marijuana is a maximum of 5 years in prison and/or a maximum fine of 100,000 baht (USD $2,800). Thus, cops are always on the lookout for suckers that they can demand a bribe of anything less than the official fine.
Case study: drugs in Thailand
In order to give an idea of what types of drugs are available to backpackers on the SE Asian trail, we will next focus on the drugs that are typically available in Thailand.Marijuana
In Bangkok, marijuana can easily be purchased in a couple of “reggae bars” in the alleys off of Khao San Road. According to one of the bar operators, a deal has been in place with the cops for years. “You be good man, make no trouble, quiet talking, mai pen rai [no problem].” That said, the quality is definitely sub-par. After your first smoke, the stuff on offer tends to give more of a dull “thud” than anything euphoric.
Outside of Bangkok, gear can be easily scored wherever there’s a tourist scene.
Prices
Weed from the Reggae bars costs 500 baht for 2.5 grams. These are tourist prices. English teachers in the know score ounces of similar quality stuff for between 1000-1500 baht. On the islands, 2.5 grams will set you back 500 baht if you’re lucky, 1000 baht if you’re not.
Hash sells for 2000 baht/ 10 grams. Most dealers seem to lurk in and around Khao San Road, and sell exclusively to tourists.
Source
Marijuana plantations are scattered in every region, although the northeastern region is the most heavily planted area in Thailand. Hashish tends to get smuggled in from Pakistan and Nepal for foreigner consumption, as well as for trafficking through Japan, Singapore and Switzerland. Generally speaking, Thais deal in grass, while the majority of those selling hash on the street tend to be from France or the Middle East.
Speed
The variant of speed used in Thailand was originally manufactured by the Nazis to help keep their troops alert. The drug usually comes in pill form (often red/orange, sometimes green) and produces a potent mix of visuals and intensely euphoric highs. Be warned that this stuff is extremely addictive (comedowns are harsh), and with prolonged use, your brain will turn to mush. Thai addicts can be easily spotted, just on the basis of how filthy and brain-addled they appear.Availability
Yaba is by far Thailand’s biggest drug problem, with an estimated 3 million addicts in the country. Popular among taxi drivers, students, laborers, and sex trade workers, it is easy to score everywhere in Thailand. Foreign dealers are rare, so most tourists tend to procure pills from either bargirls or tuk-tuk drivers.
Prices
Pills cost around 17 baht to produce, and are sold to dealers for between 20-25 baht, while the final market price is about 1-200 baht per pill.
Source
According to a 2004 US State Department report, the bulk of yaba is made in clandestine Burmese labs. One anti-narcotics agent based near the Thai-Burmese border recently told The Nation that “yaba is cheaper to make and easier to smuggle than either opium or heroin, the precursor chemicals are easy to obtain, and it’s not dependant on a growing season. Most importantly, it yields a higher profit for the investment.”
While smuggling methods are always changing, the agent said that in recent times, the drugs are being packed in plastic bags and forced down the throats of cows, before crossing the border from Karenni State into Thailand’s Mae Hong Son province. “On the other side, the cows are killed, and the bags retrieved.” The agent added that “Thailand is a large and profitable market, as it’s much safer to dump pills here, rather than exporting them to the West. Of course, that means that there is a huge and well-established distribution network in place.” He did not elaborate further.
Opium
Opium is the source of a wide variety of drugs that include morphine, heroine and codeine. The general effect depresses the higher centers of the brain, which generates euphoria. Sensations of fear, apprehension and inhibition are reduced, the sense of ego is expanded, and there is a general sense of well being. With prolonged use, opiates also suppress the activity of the muscles of the intestine, which leads to constipation. Remember the toilet scene in Trainspotting?Availability
Opium is a traditional part of northern hill tribe cultures, and addiction rates are high. Among the Hmong, for example, is it estimated that up to 30% of the male population are hooked, with typical addicts smoking between twenty to thirty pipes a day.
The net result of this is that opium is easy to procure in most parts of northern Thailand. In places such as Pai and Chiang Mai, you can expect constant offers from tuk-tuk drivers, guesthouse owners, and street dealers. Smoking up on hill tribe treks is also popular, and enthusiastically encouraged by trek guides (they usually buy directly from villagers, and then sell at inflated prices to those willing).
Prices
Wholesale, opium is sold in the Golden Triangle for between USD $300-$500 per kilo. Tourists can expect to pay between 100-200 baht per gram.
Source
The common name for the region north of Chiang Mai, is the “Golden Triangle”, famed for its opium production. On the Thai portion of this triangle, eradication programs have reduced the size of annual crops by 80% in the last ten years, but to compensate, production in Burma and Laos has skyrocketed.
Typically, poppies are planted in September and October, and harvested in February or March. A few days after the petals have fallen, the outside of the flower pod is scored with a three-bladed knife, to exude a white, sticky sap. This oxidizes and turns into a brown gum, which is scraped off, formed into balls, then wrapped in banana or mulberry leaves and buried to cure.
Heroin
When heroin first infiltrates a person's body, the brain's natural chemistry reacts with the heroin toxins to create what users describe as a feeling of 'euphoria'. Once a user comes down off the high, the desire to reclaim that feeling becomes an obsession. With repeated use, the body develops a higher tolerance to the drug, meaning that more is needed to experience the same high.Availability
Scoring heroin is a bit tricky, as it’s not very common, and highly taboo. Pazine asked loads of expat dealers in town. Only one said that a score could be arranged, but that it would take a “number of phone calls” and about a week of waiting before the deal could be done.
And then, we met “Cattie”, a one-legged Aussie addict with third-degree burn scars covering her entire body (seriously). She told Pazine that heroin was “everywhere”, but “you need to know someone to get you into the scene.” She was dead broke and living off the efforts of her weed-dealing Thai boyfriend (and fellow junkie). Sexual favors, she implied, worked well when there was no money for a fix. Ugh.
To tell the truth, that’s as much as we know.
Prices
In Bangkok, a kilo of heroin sells for between $7,500 and $9,500 per kilo, depending on the quantity ordered. Small-timers can expect to pay around 1500-2000 baht for 2.5 grams. Prices tend to be lower in the north, and higher in Bangkok. According to Cattie, four doses (enough to get a serious junkie through one day) can be purchased in Bangkok for as little as 100 baht, although they’d be “small as fuck, and cut all to shit.”
Source
About 50% of the opium produced in the Golden Triangle is converted into heroin, although it takes six kilos of opium to make one kilo of heroin. According to American DEA agent Mike Carter, the bulk of heroin in Thailand comes from Myanmar (source, New York Times, 23 June, 2005). ''Chiang Mai used to be poppy country, and 10 years ago there were refineries everywhere. With all the tourists and golf resorts around, it might be difficult to imagine Thailand as a major heroin producer, but it used to be -- until pressure from the international community became too much. Traffickers were forced to relocate across the border in Myanmar.”
Drug caravans move over the dense mountain frontier, under cover of night, when Thai border patrols are in their barracks. Once the shipment crosses the border, it is handed over to Thais, who then bring the drugs on a southward route to Bangkok.
Heroin in Burma sells for about USD$1000/ kilo, but by the time it reaches Thailand, because of the transportation costs, the price rises to around $5500.
In Bangkok, Carter says that most foreign buyers are from Nigeria, Europe, and Taiwan, and are supplied by local middlemen. “These groups export the bulk of their heroin to Europe, which is exchanged for ecstasy tablets that are then brought back to Asia.”
Other drugs
- Ecstasy: This popular party drug is widely available in Bangkok and usually sells for 500 baht per pill. Can easily be found on Khao San Road, and in most clubs where electronic music is played.
- Cocaine: Coke is mostly smuggled into Thailand through the airport, and also by postal parcels. Singaporeans and Nigerians have cornered this market. In areas frequented by tourists (Bangkok, Phuket, and Chonburi Provinces), coke can be found, although it will take a lot of legwork. Cocaine is probably the most expensive drug in Thailand, with a gram going for as much as 3500 baht. Quality is sketchy.
- Ketamine: This horse tranquilizer, which produces “womb-like feelings of bliss combined with intense visuals”, is taking a serious run at ecstasy as Thailand’s favored party drug. It’s available in most entertainment places frequented by tourists, and generally goes for 500 baht per gram. It is usually snorted, but can also be smoked “chase the dragon” style. Most of the stuff comes into the country from Pakistan and India.
- LSD: Acid is plentiful on Khao San Road (check the clubs) and can also be found anywhere in Thailand where techno music draws foreign crowds. One tab goes for 500 baht, although the quality tends to be poor. Most acid in Thailand is cut with speed, which results in poor visuals, a very weak “trippy” feeling, and an increased sense of agitation that will last for around 8-12 hours. Not recommended.
Who controls the SE Asian drug trade?
Corruption is rife in SE Asian power circles. A good example is Thailand: according to an Interpol official, when Thais seize marijuana, yaba, and heroin, the caches are held in military bases in and around Bangkok. “A lot of brokers are now actually residing in Bangkok, and the stuff that they sell comes right out of these bases.” Pasuk Phongpaichit, a Cambridge University-trained economist and author of the book Guns, Girls, Gambling, Ganja: Thailand's Illegal Economy and Public Policy, has told the media that Thailand’s drug trade is controlled by Thailand’s elite. She cited a case in 2005 in which a police raid was conducted on the home of notorious Thai yaba baron Surachai Ngoenthongfou (aka Bang Ron). Though the target escaped, he left behind mounds of evidence. Cops seized 758,000 pills, and documents linking the dealer with several high-ranking policemen, army officers and influential members of Parliament.
One officer told the media: "We found evidence at Bang Ron's house that proves connections between uniformed men and officials that are involved in his network." Surprisingly, no “influential” members were arrested, although several officers were either demoted or transferred out of province.
Conclusion
There are a lot of drugs available in SE Asia, although the risks are severe. Common punters, if they choose to indulge in weed, should be prepared to get shaken down to the tune of at least 10,000 baht if pinched. Aficionados of the harder stuff (heroin, and yaba, mainly) should expect seriousproblems if nabbed.Be careful, and play safe!
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